Frequently Asked Questions
I'd Really Like an Oak Gazebo, Where Do I Start?
As earlier highlighted, oak is a high calibre wood to use for a gazebo. Both durable and pleasing to the eye, it combines beauty and strength. Here we'll talk through the process, from start to finish. If at any point you have queries, contact us on 01889 597283 or email us. We're more than happy to help.
Choosing an Oak Gazebo design
The information and pictures, here on our oak gazebo page, will help inspire. Visit our 'Choosing The Size of Your Gazebo' article to discover what size gazebo is best suited. With an idea in mind, using the 3D oak gazebo designer helps refine the vision.
But remember, no gazebo design is out of bounds, so let your imagination run wild. If there’s any design the 3D oak gazebo design can’t do, get in touch. On that note, feel free to contact us for any advice throughout.
Measurements
There are a few finer details to understand on measurements. First, all measurements are from the outside of the post. Therefore, the dimensions refer to the total footprint and include the post thickness.
Size and roof pitch can also increase measurements. Once tiled, the roof can overhang by around 250 mm per side. So another 500mm on the footprint size.
We can help alter the design for minimal overhang if required. For example, if the gazebo needs to sit flush against an existing building.
Placing the order
Once the design is complete, place your order either online, over the telephone or by email. From here, we'll create a CAD drawing.
A CAD drawing will detail the finest measurements and specifications of the oak gazebo. If necessary, the customer and or architect can alter the design at this stage and we'll adjust the CAD to suit. We can provide a CAD drawing before payment. This costs (or in advance for £100 + VAT which is then taken off your final order) but we'll take this off in the final order.
With your approval of the CAD drawing, we make the gazebo to your exact designs, working to the quoted lead time.
Do I need planning permission for an oak gazebo?
The CAD drawing has all the relevant details to present to your local council for planning permission.
However, our oak gazebos seldom exceed the guidelines. It's common practice for councils to set height restrictions at 4m. That's one reason we keep our gazebos below 4m.
If an oak gazebo or any structure doesn’t need planning permission, it’s known as a 'permitted development ‘.
That said, there are other factors at play. The high restrictions become more strict when closer to a fence. There's a chance if the oak gazebo is within 2m of a boundary fence, it'll have to be less than 2.5m in height.
Other complications include:
- The distance between the oak gazebo and the property.
- Whether the gazebo is visible from public roadways.
- Listed buildings also have strict rules, even in outside areas.
- The leniency of the individual planning officer who's assessing the gazebo dimensions.
So, we always recommend going through the process. Although the chances are you won't need planning permission, it’ll give you peace of mind and eliminate the risk of an enforcement notice.
To find your local planning authority, follow this link and type in your postcode. For more information, have a look at our detailed PDF Booklet.
Delivery
Once our skilled workforce has created the oak gazebo, it's time for delivery. We’ll be in touch to let you know your gazebo is complete with a balance request if applicable. When payment is confirmed, our transport team will then contact you to arrange a delivery date.
The oak frame gazebo kit arrived flat-packed in kit form. We band all parts together and place them on pallets. For manual unloading, break the bands and each individual beam is transportable.
- Standard Delivery
When the kit form oak gazebo arrives on a flat-bed or curtain side lorry it’ll need unloading. Oak is heavy so you’ll need the means to unload. If there are builders on-site, they’ll be able to perform the task at hand.
Offloading equipment such as a forklift or telehandler will make light work of unloading.
- HIAB Delivery
Assisted delivery is where we supply the means of offloading for you. If a HIAB is used, a delivery crane arm to unload the kit form oak gazebo to the side of the lorry to ground level on the kerb at the delivery location. We outsource all haulage, so prices depend on delivery location and the dimensions of the oak gazebo.
Please note, HIAB lorries need more space than a flat-bed lorry. This is because of the stabilising leg extending from the side of the vehicle.
- Collection
Of course, if you have the means, collect from our base. The address is below:
Airfield Industrial Estate
Unit 1C
Stafford
ST18 0PF
Google Map link here.
How To Assemble A Solid Oak Gazebo
Gazebo assembly
Oak Timber Structures is a supply only company, we don't assemble the gazebo.
However, we design each gazebo with ease of assembly in mind. It's common for builders to comment on how amazing our gazebos are to work with.
We'll email over a 'Parts Identification Drawing'. This drawing shows how we've labelled each component. Where joints connect, the pieces have an identifier such as a number or letter. We label the connecting part with the same number or letter.
All woodwork is complete. For this reason, it's common to hire general builders rather than a carpenter.
Each builder uses their own methods and assembly techniques vary. The most common and trusted method is to lay all parts on the ground. Then, lift the oak and hold it in place while someone pegs together pieces with the supplied oak pegs.
Oak is heavy. For this reason, a builder may suggest the hire of a Genie Lift. A Genie lift holds the oak posts in place for easy assembly. When hiring a genie lift, ensure it'll take the weight of the heaviest piece. We can supply any weight measurements if needed.
To learn how other people have put their kit form oak gazebo up, look at our start-to-finish photo galleries.
How long do they take to assemble?
We're often asked about how long our gazebos take to assemble. Assuming all groundworks and foundations are in place. A 4m x 4m solid kit form oak gazebo, along with cedar shingle roofing, will take approximately two and a half days.
Solid oak beams are heavy, so builders may need additional labour and or lifting equipment, which can increase builder quotes.
How are the oak gazebos held together?
An oak frame gazebo comprises of upright posts, horizontal beams, and braces. Each joined using traditional mortise and tenon joints secured with oak pegs.
More traditional looking oak gazebos keep the oak pegs visible and protruding from the gazebo. This is down to preference, and it's easy to cut them level with the oak beams.
While the mainframe connects with supplied oak pegs, you'll need stainless steel screws for the rafters.
The diagonal corner rafters that slope inwards from the main oak frame connect to the central lantern using mortise and tenon joints. Known as hip rafters, where these meet the main oak frame, use 6mm diameter, 150mm long screws.
Use one for each corner. So, for square or rectangular gazebos, four in total. Other gazebo shapes will need more screws. For example, a hexagonal shape requires six screws.
DO NOT USE IRON SCREWS. Always use stainless steel or galvanised screws. Oak contains an acid called tannins. This acid erodes other metals like iron.
Found in common hardware stores, these screws aren't difficult to find. Here are some links to 150mm stainless steel screws:
Common roof rafters are the smaller intermediate rafter between the larger hip rafters. Held together by screws, the suggested size is 100mm plus.
For the common rafters, use two screws at the top where they meet the primary rafters. Secure them at the bottom, where they rest on the mainframe with one screw.
The 'Parts Identification Drawing' states how many common rafters make up the oak gazebo roof. From here, builders can establish how many screws they'll need
For all screws, pre-drill a hole first. As oak is a hardwood, it can snap if there are no pilot holes.
How to Stop an Oak Gazebo From Blowing Over
The weight of our 3x3m gazebos for example weigh close to a tonne, and that's before roofing. So, with such downward pressure, bolting to the ground isn't a necessity.
Suffice to say a strong wind wont whisk away your lovely new oak gazebo, even if you opt to erect it as is on paving or decking with no additional fixing.
Foundation
All buildings need solid foundations and a solid oak gazebo is no different. An oak gazebo must stand on a flat surface. Ask a builder's opinion on the proposed area.
A concrete pad isn't always required. Existing paved or slabbed areas will often take the weight. Some customers have used large slabs on grass. But for this method, ensure the ground remains stable, especially when wet.
Re-Bars
Re-bars, protrude out of concrete footings and will prevent the posts of your gazebo from kicking out.
Builders will mark out, with stakes, the oak gazebo footprint, then create concrete footings. The depth and diameter of footings depend on the size of the gazebo and the ground below.
They may use footing tubes filled with concrete. But before the concrete sets, they'll embed the re-bars into the footings. These have a diameter of around 20 mm and by drilling holes in vertical posts on the oak gazebo, the posts stand over the re-bars.
Rod posts need to be accurate. But for a competent builder, it'll be easy. Take the footprint and subtract half of the thickness of vertical posts (150, 175 or 200mm) on each side. For example, for a 4x4m with 200mm thick posts. The steel rods should stand at 3.9m x 3.9m.
Drill holes into the bottom of the upright posts at the centre point, ensure the drill hole is deep enough to sheath the rebars completely and that the posts are not resting on the rebars.
Fence posts or 'shoes' are used to prevent the posts being in contact with standing water which can affect the lifespan of the Gazebo. Fencepost shoes drill into concrete, then the bolts tighten around the upright oak posts. This is a tidy looking method. Here's a straightforward tutorial for installing a fence post onto concrete.
Whether using re-bars or fence posts, select 'Normal Posts' on the 3D oak gazebo designer as these methods require no added length of the oak post.
Staddle Stones
Your oak gazebo can rest
on top of staddle stones.
Whether using re-bars or fence posts, select 'Normal Posts' on the 3D oak gazebo designer as these methods require no added length of the oak post.
Here at Oak Timber Structure, we provide white, tapered, reconstituted sandstone staddle stones. Fitted with metal pins on the top, a drilled hole in the bottom of the upright oak posts ensures the entire oak gazebo will rest on the stones and prevent the posts from kicking out.
The stones are non-porous. This means no liquid or air will enter the stones. So they won't need any membrane between the posts and the stone. They stand 230mm (9 inches) high and lift the oak posts off the ground to prevent damage from standing water.
We supply the staddle stones to fit the thickness of posts, either 150, 175 or 200mm. Whichever option, the staddle stones taper an extra 25mm at the bottom.
The weight of the oak gazebo is enough to hold it in place. They won't need fixing. That said, some customers opt to cement the stones, but this is optional and isn't required.
In the 3D gazebo designer, there's an option to include staddle stones in the order. With this option selected, we'll reduce the length of the posts. So, the overall gazebo height remains the same.
What are the options for roofing my gazebo?
Cedar Shingles
Roof shingles are coverings that overlap to protect and add shelter to the gazebo.
We offer western red cedar shingles alongside the hip and ridge tiles to cover the roof corners. There are two types of cedar shingles available, either treated or untreated.
Treated cedar shingles have a lifespan of 25+ years on average and can vary based on environmental factors. This period can vary when the shingles are exposed to dramatic moisture and sunlight.
The more common, untreated cedar shingles have approximately 20+ year lifespan. Untreated shingles are a more popular choice because the natural cedar colour is more prominent. Whereas, when treated, the cedar becomes much darker.
When fixing shingles, battens are essential. These are selectable in the 3D oak gazebo designer. The designer will calculate the number of battens and shingles needed. We'll provide enough to overlap the shingles at 125mm centres for heightened protection.
When fitting cedar shingles, remember, don't use iron nails as tannins will corrode the metal. Nails to fix the cedar shingles should be 30mm and stainless steel.
There are two batten options, softwood and oak. Each has preferred nail specifications.
If fitting cedar shingles to treated softwood battens, you can use Silicone Bronze ARS nails. The natural tannins on the wood won't corrode this type of nail.
Here are some links to Silicone Bronze ARS Nails 31mm x 1.8mm:
Yet, when choosing oak battens, use different nails. This is because oak is harder than softwood, so you’ll need thicker nails to fix. When using oak battens, pre-drilling the battens will save a lot of time and effort.
Here's a link to stainless steel nails measuring 30mm x 3.35mm. These are suitable for attaching cedar shingle to oak battens:
Here's a downloadable PDF guide for battens and shingles. Or for more detailed information refer to the B.C Shake & Shingle Association Guide.
Other Tiles
While we don't supply other tiles, our gazebos are sturdy and will support a full roof of tiles. Whether made from slate, ceramic or any other material.
Let us know if you require additional battens to suit specialist sizes.
Cedar shingles are the most
popular choice of gazebo roofing
Roof Layers - Optional Boarding
With the decision made on outside roofing, there are a few more things to consider.
When using solely battens and shingles, from the viewpoint of standing in the oak gazebo, the battens and the underside of shingles or tiles are visible. So, high-grade oak battens are a pleasing aesthetic from this perspective.
Another option is tongue-and-groove boarding that will cover up the underside of tiles and battens. Tongue-and-groove is a joint type that's easy to install. This boarding screws into the gazebos rafters with tiles or shingles fixed to battens above.
With and without tongue and groove boarding
We recommend screwing into the rafters with 40mm stainless steel screws. Other screw materials may be corroded by the oak rafters.
The tongue-and-groove boarding is visible yet offers a clean and uniform view. Boarding is available on the 3D gazebo designer in either larch, cedar or oak.
Boarding covers the underside of tiles and battens. So, softwood battens are the best option they wont be visible.
We've found the most common method is to fix softwood battens onto the rafters at a right angle. These should be every 125mm (centre to centre) to accommodate the shingles.
This approach means the bottom side of the shingles are visible. So, from inside the oak gazebo, the overlapping shingles creates an attractive pattern.
Fitting Around the Central Lantern
A hipped style gazebo has a pyramid-like roof. So, there's a central lantern that protrudes from the top.
There are two recommended ways of sealing against the cedar shingles.
One method is to create a 'skirt' around the lantern using spare shingles. Then use a silicone seal around the top.
Another way is to use full flashing. Flashing is a thin metal material that'll direct water away from the lantern. So, by covering the entire lantern and shaping it towards the shingles, it'll reduce the oak gazebos' exposure to water.
Is there anything else I'll need?
Fire-Proofing (Optional)
When fitting tongue-and-groove boarding, adding fireproofing is an option. Especially, if you have a wood burner or BBQ underneath. In this scenario, UK Building Regulations may suggest this as a course of action.
By applying flameproof chemicals, softwood cladding becomes protected from fire. We don't supply fire treated cladding or any other chemical treatments. However, we can suggest companies that specialise in this area should you need the boarding treated.
Sealant for Optional Boarding
Boarding is more prone to the effects of moisture than the oak gazebo itself.
When humidity is high, the boarding absorbs moisture and swells. On the flip side, when the humidity drops, the boarding shrinks. It's a process called movement.
There are ways to allow room for natural shrinking and swelling. Pre-drill the boarding hole to prevent the boards from splitting when fixed.
Likewise, when fitting the tongue-and-groove boarding, don't connect them too tightly. Leaving a small gap between allows for moisture movement.
To minimise the levels of movement, treating the boarding with OSMO UV protection oil will prevent warping. Apply with a brush before installation. Be sure to cover edges and ends. Ensure the oil is dry before fixing the boarding.
How will my oak gazebo stand up to the weather?
Studies by the Timber Research And Development Association (TRADA) found untreated oak has a lifespan of 15-25 years.
The study relates to the structure having posts embedded into the ground. So, lifting the oak gazebo using methods such as a staddle stone will further protect the gazebo.
Also, prolonged exposure to UV rays from the sun, oak will change colour. It'll develop a silvery grey hue. This is a traditional aesthetic most customers yearn for.
It'll take around two years, but to delay the process, apply a treatment oil. We recommend OSMO UV protection oil as an industry standard.
Made of fresh sawn oak, expect slight shrinkage as the moisture content decreases. This is part of the process and our skilled workforce creates the gazebo with this in mind. In fact, they use the inevitable shrinkage to tighten the mortise and tenon joints.
Over time, the drying of oak results in cracks and splits known as checks. This doesn't affect the structural integrity and is a profound characteristic of mature oak.